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第一次自己换雪胎分享

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鲜花(2) 鸡蛋(0)
发表于 2011-11-13 13:04 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
老杨团队,追求完美;客户至上,服务到位!
死屯儿下雪了,各位要考虑是不是换雪胎了吧?如果你和我一样,有安在轮毂上的雪胎四个,那就可以自己动手换胎啦。如果没有,这次可以考虑买雪胎时同时配上轮毂,这样明天开春就可以自己换胎了。
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1、先确定雪胎做好动平衡(balancing)了,如果是新胎,一般都会给你做。如果是旧的,可以观察轮毂边缘,如果能看到一个灰白色的金属块,那就是配重,用来达到动平衡的。轮子有时候还要做alignment,这个并不需要常做,可以在平直路面上开车,安全情况下轻轻放开方向盘,如果车不跑偏,就说明还可以。6 Y. J, x. b" o3 d+ w# B
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2、可以动手了,只用车子自带换胎工具(scissor jack, lug wrench)就行,车子手册上一般都有步骤说明:在平整的硬地上停好车,先挂P挡,拉紧手刹,用木块或专门的wheel blocker卡好轮子,然后用扳手(lug wrench)把每个螺丝(lug bolt)松开几扣——如果不先松开几扣,一会儿支起轮子来再拧螺丝轮子会转。找到这个轮子一侧车身的“硬点”(hard point),用千斤顶对准稳稳支起来,让轮子稍微离地就行——如果离地太高,上下轮子太费力。继续拧下所有螺丝,拔下轮子。
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3、换上带雪胎的轮子(貌似如果是前轮驱动的车,应该把胎纹深的轮子安在前面?哪位知道的给说说?),交替拧上螺丝。放下千斤顶到轮子落地,再交替上紧所有螺丝。如果有力矩扳手(torque wrench),用那玩意把螺丝拧紧到手册上的指定值。依次替换四个轮子,顺序可以按对角线来,这样每次只要卡另外一条对角线上的两个轮子(换左前和右后,只要卡右前和左后,以此类推)。
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4、给轮胎充好气,开出去跑个几十公里,再重新检查并拧紧所有螺丝。大功告成!
鲜花(23) 鸡蛋(0)
发表于 2011-11-13 14:05 | 显示全部楼层
重实际的人. 勤快.
鲜花(17) 鸡蛋(0)
发表于 2011-11-13 15:31 | 显示全部楼层
轮子功一学就会!
鲜花(128) 鸡蛋(0)
发表于 2011-11-13 16:19 | 显示全部楼层
老杨团队 追求完美
鲜花(12) 鸡蛋(0)
发表于 2011-11-13 17:04 | 显示全部楼层
Very useful information. Thank you for sharing!
鲜花(5) 鸡蛋(0)
发表于 2011-11-13 19:33 | 显示全部楼层
鲜花(6) 鸡蛋(0)
发表于 2011-11-14 10:36 | 显示全部楼层
老杨团队,追求完美;客户至上,服务到位!
多谢楼主分享,这周末刚刚去dealer那里换上了雪胎,争取下次开始自己换!
鲜花(362) 鸡蛋(0)
发表于 2011-11-23 16:21 | 显示全部楼层
鲜花(7) 鸡蛋(1)
发表于 2011-11-23 22:04 | 显示全部楼层
双向滚动的轮胎才能左右对调,单向滚动的轮胎只能前后对调。
鲜花(2) 鸡蛋(0)
 楼主| 发表于 2011-11-24 14:17 | 显示全部楼层
老杨团队,追求完美;客户至上,服务到位!
9# shark27 # {1 y; Q. s1 t5 v7 H
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* z8 p5 s; ?5 J+ D( y. F! w+ y, t& d谢谢鲨鱼指点啊……我那雪胎上标着转动方向箭头,应该就是单向滚动的了?/ ?( M" c5 |, S. e6 [  H" K  m
我是按箭头指向装的,同时把胎纹深的一对安在前轮(前驱车),把浅的那一对安在后轮了。
鲜花(11) 鸡蛋(0)
发表于 2011-11-27 09:41 | 显示全部楼层
9# shark27
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+ \6 d& f  }3 I% f: s谢谢鲨鱼指点啊……我那雪胎上标着转动方向箭头,应该就是单向滚动的了?5 i8 m& g. f6 L, q
我是按箭头指向装的,同时把胎纹深的一对安在前轮(前驱车),把浅的那一对安在后轮了。
& @( t% s  {- f# ]8 {/ ^* K7 E& @JulianW 发表于 2011-11-24 14:17

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1 B. y9 j, G, {$ C) w5 TDangerously wrong! Please see:http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=52
鲜花(11) 鸡蛋(0)
发表于 2011-11-27 09:42 | 显示全部楼层
Where to Install New Pairs of Tires?1 R# N' t  t* F; p5 f6 H) _

5 k5 ^8 i  |! R# [Most vehicles are equipped with the same size tire at every wheel position. Ideally all of these tires should also be of the same type and design, have the same tread depth and be inflated to the pressures specified by the vehicle placard or owner's manual. This combination best retains the handling balance engineered into the vehicle by its manufacturer.
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. V; @) O& S! E6 b+ n9 @# NHowever due to a front-wheel drive vehicle’s front tires' responsibility for transmitting acceleration, steering and most of the braking forces, it's normal for them to wear faster than rear tires. Therefore if the tires aren't rotated on a regular basis, tires will typically wear out in pairs rather than in sets. And if the tires aren't rotated at all, it's likely that the rear tires will still have about 1/2 of their original tread depth remaining when the front tires are completely worn out.' ^* _* H1 f/ R

, J1 \! D: u* L! m4 FIntuition suggests that since the front tires wore out first and because there is still about half of the tread remaining on the rear tires, the new tires should be installed on the front axle. This will provide more wet and wintry traction; and by the time the front tires have worn out for the second time, the rear tires will be worn out, too. However in this case, intuition isn't right...and following it can be downright dangerous.
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: t  x0 T, j* v% X$ ^% T6 x3 m  FWhen tires are replaced in pairs in situations like these, the new tires should always be installed on the rear axle and the partially worn tires moved to the front. New tires on the rear axle help the driver more easily maintain control on wet roads since deeper treaded tires are better at resisting hydroplaning.
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Hydroplaning occurs when the tire cannot process enough water through its tread design to maintain effective contact with the road. In moderate to heavy rain, water can pool up in road ruts, depressions and pockets adjacent to pavement expansion joints. At higher speeds, the standing water often found in these pools challenges a tire's ability to resist hydroplaning.
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& l& k! ?, F* l4 r8 @, y+ }5 XExactly when hydroplaning occurs is the result of a combination of elements including water depth, vehicle weight and speed, as well as tire size, air pressure, tread design and tread depth. A lightweight vehicle with wide, worn, underinflated tires in a heavy downpour will hydroplane at lower speeds than a heavyweight vehicle equipped with new, narrow, properly inflated tires in drizzling rain.
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If the front tires have significantly less tread depth than the rear tires, the front tires will begin to hydroplane and lose traction on wet roads before the rear tires. While this will cause the vehicle to understeer (the vehicle wants to continue driving straight ahead), understeer is relatively easy to control because releasing the gas pedal will slow the vehicle and help the driver maintain control.
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However, if the front tires have significantly more tread depth than the rear tires, the rear tires will begin to hydroplane and lose traction on wet roads before the fronts. This will cause the vehicle to oversteer (the vehicle will want to spin). Oversteer is far more difficult to control and in addition to the initial distress felt when the rear of the car starts sliding, quickly releasing the gas pedal in an attempt to slow down may actually make it more difficult for the driver to regain control, possibly causing a complete spinout.' _( V$ n& _/ l8 H

0 T/ G' m" @- G$ A7 d% ?Experience
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( l8 S% t, [5 ?% b. K- VMembers of Tire Rack team had the chance to experience this phenomenon at Michelin's Laurens Proving Grounds. Participants were allowed to drive around a large radius, wet curve in vehicles fitted with tires of different tread depths -- one vehicle with new tires on the rear and half-worn tires on the front and the other with the new tires in the front and half-worn tires on the rear., V& b. y1 i* `5 o" X0 t. M
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It didn't take long for this hands-on experience to confirm that the "proving grounds" name for the facility was correct. The ability to sense and control predictable understeer with the new tires on the rear and the helplessness in trying to control the surprising oversteer with the new tires on the front was emphatically proven.
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And even though our drivers had the advantage of knowing we were going to be challenged to maintain car control, spinouts became common during our laps in the car with the new tires on the front and the worn tires on the rear. Michelin advises us that almost every driver spins out at least once when participating in this demonstration!
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6 p% e! E8 r: B7 kExperiencing this phenomenon in the safe, controlled conditions of Michelin's Laurens Proving Grounds rather than in traffic on an Interstate ramp in a rainstorm is definitely preferred!
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% p% {* [. f4 j6 TRecommendations+ X$ |+ u/ n# |% i1 f4 ^, t
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Tires should be serviced periodically following the rotation patterns provided in the vehicle's owner's manual or as established by the industry to help enhance wear quality and equalize front-to-rear and side-to-side wear rates. The minor differences in tread depth between tires that might be encountered immediately after periodic tire rotations at 5,000-7,500 mile intervals won’t upset the vehicle's hydroplaning balance and should not preclude rotating tires. For that matter, any differences in wear rates actually indicate that tire rotations should be done more frequently. Ideally tires should be replaced in complete sets. However when tires are replaced in pairs, the new pair of tires (assuming the vehicle is equipped with the same size tires all of the way around) should always be installed on the rear axle and the existing partially worn tires moved to the front axle.8 L. x6 u+ U1 O" n2 D. w& |
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While insufficient tire rotation intervals and/or out-of-adjustment wheel alignment angles often caused the differences in front-to-rear and side-to-side tire wear rates in the first place, the need to keep deeper treaded tires on the rear axle to resist oversteer conditions caused by wet road hydroplaning is important. Unfortunately this precludes the future possibility of ever rotating tires.
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. r# u4 n4 f( U( q. FOnce a pair of tires has been installed, the only way to escape being forced to drive on mismatched tires continually is to install a complete set of new tires (especially on front-wheel drive vehicles).
鲜花(7) 鸡蛋(1)
发表于 2011-11-27 09:50 | 显示全部楼层
同言同羽 置业良晨
本帖最后由 shark27 于 2011-11-27 10:02 编辑 2 n6 s- x8 |+ r" t2 l
Dangerously wrong! Please see:http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=52
4 `7 [( w) c9 d% [  [" Kolddream 发表于 2011-11-27 09:41

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如果在换胎之前,前轮花纹更浅的话,那就没有做错,否则tire rotation没有任何意义。文章讨论的后轴失控的情况只会在没有abs,前轴严重过载,后胎基本光头,再加路面及其湿滑,以及暴力驾驶的综合状态下才会发生。跟拉手刹玩漂移是一样的道理。- |) Q5 w0 E* ]  }$ j( j4 n0 j
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文章出自于专门卖轮胎的网站,其中心意义并不是该如何调换轮胎,而是鼓励顾客尽快更换4条轮胎
鲜花(2) 鸡蛋(0)
 楼主| 发表于 2011-11-28 21:38 | 显示全部楼层
老杨团队,追求完美;客户至上,服务到位!
12# olddream % o( ]% J9 |8 a8 h9 |: i
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感谢楼上两位专家指点!原文我逐字读过了,想想这个understeer vs. oversteer还是很有道理的。
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我原先装的一套四季胎都是新胎(夏天刚买的,只开了三千公里),换上的雪胎是车子原有的(因为是去年冬天买的车),当时也是前面胎纹深,后面胎纹浅。不过所谓“浅胎纹”也是不算很浅,胎纹底部有提示磨损的红蓝色线条,胎纹顶部到红蓝线条还有小半个食指指甲盖这么多。
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由于去年冬天只开了区区一千公里就换了四季胎,所以这次我决定还是恢复原样,把胎纹深的一对装在前面。等到这套雪胎总行驶距离达到rotation要求时(我的手册上是说一万两千公里),我就把前后轮交换。
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